Plate the Slate Journal No. 10

New York Cheese

The next time you're tasked with planning out that cheese plate, look no further than New York State. From the foothills of the Adirondack Mountains to a subterraneous aging cave in Crown Heights, Brooklyn, the Empire State is on the rise as a top producer of artisanal cheese. "We love the range that's happening in New York State cheese right now," says cheesemonger Lia Greenwell of Campbell Cheese & Grocery in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. "Some are closely related to European cheeses, and others are one of a kind, New York originals." Here, Lia shares four of her favorite cheeses from the state, along with recommended pairings.

From left to right, Humble Herdsman from Parish Hill Creamery, Ouleout from Vulto Creamery, Kunik from Nettle Meadow Farm, Ewe's Blue from Old Chatham Sheepherding Co., and Margie from Sprout Creek Farm.

I. Parish Hill Creamery's Humble Herdsman, Brooklyn

While this cheese is produced by Parish Hill Creamery in Vermont, Humble Herdsman is aged by Crown Finish Caves in converted 19th century lagering tunnels in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. Crown Finish washes the semi-soft raw cow's milk cheese in hard cider, then ages the wheels for 4 — 6 months. The result: younger wheels produce hints of fruit, while more mature wheels develop vegetal and peanut notes. Recommended pairing: Ft. Greene Farms Pickled Mustard Seeds.

Humble Herdsman.

II. Kunik, Nettle Meadow Farm, Warrensburg

This triple creme, made by Nettle Meadow Farm in the foothills of the Adirondacks, combines goat milk with Jersey cow cream to produce a truly stunning cheese. Kunik displays the lemony tang of goat's milk with a rich cream line beneath the thin, bloomy rind. Kunik is a guaranteed hit at your next party alongside fruit crisps. Recommended pairing: Jan's Farmhouse Crisps.

Kunik.

“We love the range that's happening in New York state cheese right now. Some are closely related to European cheeses, and others are one-of-a-kind, New York originals.”

III. Margie, Sprout Creek Farm, Poughkeepsie

Award-winning Margie is produced by Sprout Creek Farm right outside of Poughkeepsie, NY. The bloomy rind boasts a wide range of flavors depending on age. Young wheels are mild, buttery, and akin to brie, while more mature wheels (our favorite) are oozy and sweet. Recommended pairing: The Jam Stand Not Just Peachy Sriracha Jam.

Margie.

IV. Ewe's Blue, Old Chatham Sheepherding Co., Old Chatham

Based on the classic French Roquefort, this New York original is produced in the Hudson Valley by Old Chatham Sheepherding Company — one of the oldest and now largest sheep dairies in the United States. Crumbly and rich, Ewe's Blue is laced with fruity grape notes and an insatiable lingering tang. Recommended pairing: Bee Raw Honey New York Basswood.

Ewe's Blue.

Lia Greenwell is a cheesemonger at Campbell Cheese & Grocery in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Campbell Cheese & Grocery, 502 Lorimer St., Brooklyn • 718.387.2267 • campbellcheese.com • Instagram: @campbellcheese • Twitter: @campbellcheese